Last Updated: June 10, 1998
The following is selected articles from "This Week on the Net" of 1996 and 1997 that are repeatly ask for. The first issue was published 3-1-96.
From 3-1-96
Happenings this week:
Daryl Mirza of Ducts Unlimited just got his web site up.. He did the work himself in record time and did a mighty fine job too. Daryl Teaches the Delco Kitchen Grease Exhaust Systems Cleaning School in Chicago and was just recently elected President of Power Washers of North America. Daryl if off to a flying start as PWNA President. Congradulations Daryl. Your can see Daryl's Web Pages at:
http://www.ducts.com
http://www.greasehound.com
http://www.greasepuppy.com
email: daryl@ducts.com
From: 3-8-96
The City Council of Fort Worth Passed an Environmental Ordinance with an Automatic Discharge Permit to the Sanitary Sewer for Cosmetic Power Washing. This can be used as a guide for your local Municipal Regulators. For a free copy email a request for: Subject: "Ft Worth Environmental Ordinance", at: email: "delco@dcs1.com" and include you name, address, and phone number. Please do use the reply feature of you email program as this letter is too long. It is also available on the Internet at http://www.dcs1.com/del/delpg5/fterpt.html
From 4-12-96
I have been asked several times about how to publicize your web site. In addition to putting up a web page you need to promote its location with your URL and email address on all of your business cards, letter heads, envelopes, advertising, etc. Also you should list your URL with all the major search engines on the Internet. I find the easiest way to do this is to use the list at: http://www.yahoo.com/Computers_and_Internet/Internet/World_Wide_Web/Information_and_Documentation/Site_Announcement_and_Promotion/
You can either do it yourself or use a listing service. They are all located here. I prefer using submit-it and submit-all for most of my work.
From 4-26-96
Need a copy of a Patent? The cost is $3.00 form the US Patent Office. All y ou need is a credit card and the Patent Number when you call the US Patent Office at: 703-305-8716. Patents are received in about 10 days.
From: 5-10-96
From the Pressure Power Washers Bulletin Board Posted by David Olson on May 05, 1996 In Reply to: Cleanup procedures for hazardous spills posted by Scott Leiter on May 05, 1996
: I am just getting started in the pressure washing : business. : I'm curious as to the procedures to follow in case of : accidental spills of any of the hazardous chemicals : involved in this line of work. : I recently received training videos and literature from : Delco Cleaning Systems. (Note: Delco will always answer any questions you may have at 1-800-433-2113 that may not have been addressed in their video training)
Answer:
All products that you will use are required to have a material safety data sheet (MSDS) provided with each shipment. These sheets are required to show the name of the hazardous product that is contained. Some also tell the % of the mixture. All will tell you what to do in case of a spill.
The product label would also be a place to look for answers to these questions.
By the way, these MSDS sheets are required to be carried on your truck, and all of your employees must be instructed as to the hazards of the materials that you are using. One of the benefits of belonging to an association like PWNA, is being kept updated on this type of information.
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Posted by Robert Hinderliter/Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth on March 04, 1996 In Reply to: Growth posted by Jonathan Whitt on February 27, 1996
When do you know it is time to grow the size of your : company? I have one employee and just can't do it all. : Is it worth adding other employees or just staying a : one man show...in terms of profit to myself? Any advise : would be most helpful...please, before I loose it!!! : Post me a note or E-Mail me at Powerclnr@aol.com. : Lynchburg Pressure Wash, Lynchburg Va.
Answer:
The time to grow is based on several factors, some of which are: 1) Your desires and ability to supervise others, most people under rate this important ability, 2) Capital requirements, are you going to pay for the expansion out of company profits or some other source for money, 3) Do you enjoy doing the work, supervising others, or selling best. What are your strengths? 4) What type of washing business do you have and how are the jobs bid? By the hour or by the job.
Ans: I am going to make several assumptions: 1) the expansion will be made from company profits, 2) you have limited resources and need to maximize profits, and 3) you are a hard worker.
The maximum amount of work with the least expense can be obtained with a wash rig with 3 washers. This allows you to operate one wash wand while supervise two other wash operators and be on all jobs for customer relations and quality control. The expense of operating the second and third wash units is only the cost of the equipment and lower wage labor. It does not increase the cost of transportation (an additional truck and trailer not required).
One rinse gun can keep up with two wash guns. I preferred doing the rinsing so I could better control the quality and speed of our work. A hot water rinse gun can do quite of bit of washing after being prewashed by the wash operators if needed.
If your work is by the job and not by the hour, and your work can be efficiently done by three wash operators, then it will take 3 or 4 wash rigs operating on separate jobs to make as much profit as a single wash rig with 3 wash wands. I found the reason for this was the loss of control on individual jobs where the operators were by themselves.
Normally when you add a second rig you will find that you have to work harder and not less. If your major goal is for long range growth then the effort is worth it.
Another method I have seen used successfully is to be more selective in who your customers are. In other words drop your poorest customers and work on getting new better customers to replace them. I have even seem some Mobile Power Wash Operators send the poorest customers to their competitors. The reason for this was that if their competitors were spending time on poor accounts they would not be in a position to bid against the better accounts.
If I have completely confused you give me a call 1-800-433-2113. Robert, Larry, Joe or are always available to take your calls.
From 5-31-986
Posted by GERARDO ARVIZO on the BBS
We will be employing a contractor to power wash the exterior of buildings for the purpose of surface preparation before applying new paint. The intent of the power washing is to clean the surface only, and not to blast off the existing coating. The power washing system will consist of a #25 nozzle tip @ 3000 psi with water only (no detergents, no heat, no steam, no abrasives). The problem is that some of the buildings may have been painted with paint containing lead (lead in concentrations of 600 ppm or greater by weight will be considered "lead-paint" or "lead-based paint"). The questions; therefore, are: Will there be a significant lead contamination of the water used in the power washing system even though it is being used for cleaning only? If the water does become contaminated with lead, at what levels of lead in the paint will the water become contaminated to the point that environmental and worker protection measures must be implemented? Is power washing recommended for cleaning purposes if lead is present in the building paint? Has anyone in the power washing industry have a similar problem? If so, how was it resolved? Any information on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. GERARDO ARVIZO, email: garvizo@wsmr-emh37.army.mil
AND HERE IS THE ANSWER!
Posted by Pressure Pro's Mobile Wash Sandblasting
Gerardo: The only lead you need to concern yourself with is suspended particles within the rinse. Lead is for the most part insoluble at neutral pH levels. Any soluble lead will want to form Lead Sulfate, which is insoluble at neutral pH levels. In the past Pressure Pro's Mobile Wash & Sandblasting ( My company ) have washed under similar situations and filtered all our rinse waters thru a sand filter media and removed suspended Lead to ( ND ) Levels. Keep in mind that you will wash lead off the building, but in particle form. Thus containment of these particles is necessary. We are located in Colorado Springs, CO. I've been in the wash business 3 yrs. and Environmental Industry for about 10 yrs. I'm a degreed chemist with 5 yrs. direct experience with Industrial Heavy Metal Treatment. My company travel and can assist you with any problems or Question you may have. (719) 527-1127 Desk, 719-475-4979 pager/voice mail.
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You can track your UPS shipments on the internet at: http://www.ups.com/
You can track your Federal Express shipments at:
http://www.fedex.com/
From 11-27-96
DELCO'S COLD WEATHER HINTS
1. DO NOT LET YOUR WASHER FREEZE! If possible, store your pressure washer in a warm place. Automatic bathroom heaters work well in small areas. Pilot lights provide heat at the base of your heater coils, block off the stack to capture additional pilot light heat. Heat lamps next to the pump help protect the pump. Automatic kerosene heaters will protect larger areas.
2. If your washer is going to freeze, the best way to protect your washer is with anti-freeze. Fill up your empty tank with anti-freeze then start up your washer and push out the water with anti-freeze. Remove your spray tip from your wand and insert it into the float tank. Recirculate the anti-freeze for 2 minutes. This will protect your pump, coils, hoses and plumbing. Use a 5 gallon jug to capture the anti-freeze for reuse. If you have any questions on this call Greg, Joe, Larry, or Robert toll free: U.S. Wats 1-800-433-2113. If your units do not have a float tank, use a 5 gallon bucket and insert the water intake hose into it.
3. The next best way to protect your unit from freezing is to blow out the water with air pressure. Be careful with this method. Water will collect in low places and still break your washer. This is especially true if you move your washer after blowing out the water; the vibration will collect water droplets in low places.
4. Your washer will freeze going down the highway with a reported air temperature of 35 degrees fahrenheit. That is because of the cooler temperatures in low places. Remember, air temperature varies normally 2 to 4 degrees in a given region.
5. In calm air hot water washing can be done to about 25 degrees fahrenheit. In blowing wind hot water washing can be done to about 34 degrees fahrenheit. 6. Aluminum brightening does not work well below 60 degrees fahrenheit. Remember the sun...direct sun light will raise surface temperature several degrees.
7. You can pull open trailer wash rigs with water tanks down the highway in freezing temperatures by putting your wash wand into your 500 gallon water tank and firing up the water heater.
8. Keep your water supply hoses flowing with water, water out of the ground will be about 50 degrees fahrenheit in most areas.
9. If your wash water runs across sidewalks or driveways and freezes, salt these areas down for safety. Always carry a bucket of rock salt for your customers safety.
10. Chemicals work slower in cold weather. Plan on using more chemicals and extra time.
11. Do not let your chemicals freeze. Store in a dry, warm place. Liquid chemicals will usually separate upon freezing.
12. Protect yourself in cold weather with rain suits, over shoes, and hard hats with rain troughs and gloves.
13. On days you cannot wash do sales calls and equipment maintenance.
14. Below freezing work - vent-a-hoods; in-plant cleaning; de-icing of: aircraft, oil field drilling rigs, refineries, manufacturing plants with outside water piping.
15. You can drain your water hose by disconnecting it at each end, laying it out in a straight line, then walking down the hose passing the hose over your shoulder.
16. Be careful where you point your spray: door locks, brake drums, door jams, and steps will freeze after you spray water on them. If you use 180 degree to 200 degree fahrenheit, hot water evaporation will help minimize the icing problem.
17. When washing reefer trailer make sure the units are running, this will help minimize icing.
18. Avoid washing in the shade. Direct sun light heats up skin temperature rapidly. Try to have get the fleet owner to park vehicles in the sun.
19. If you walk on a lot of ice, use boot chains or shoes with spikes.
From: 12-6-96
A comment from Bret A. Lambdin about the last "This Week on the Net", Thanks Bret:
>7. You can pull open trailer wash rigs with water tanks down the
highway in
>freezing temperatures by putting your wash wand into
your 500 gallon water
>tank and firing up the water heater.
Just a note here on transporting your unit in winter months. If you have a water supply tank, it is not necessary to run your pump when transporting (unless in severely cold temps, ex. 05 degrees or so). water in motion will not freeze. So if you are going directly to a job, and back, don't worry about your water freezing. It is still necessary to winterize pump, hoses, water lines and coil though. Disconnect your water supply line at tank also and put a plug in it (pcv cap is sufficient). A small amount of ice will form at the tank supply opening, so it will be necessary to have a screwdriver to break thru this ice before reattaching supply line to tank before working. I drop a small electric water pump (like those used for waterfall displays) with a 3' hose attached into the tank when i am working in cold temperatures, to help keep the water from freezing up. The longest I have used this in cold weather was for 5 hours in the teens, with some wind chill. I have pulled my trailer in excess of 30 miles in similar weather, without the water freezing so I know it works.
Bret A. Lambdin Bret A. Lambdin Lambdin's Pressure Washing 728 Twp. Rd. 1102 Ashland, Ohio 44805 office: (419)281-5504 fax: (419)281-7154 bretl@bright.net URL: http://www.bright.net/~bretl
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Another cold weather tip from Dave Warwick in Tulsa, Oklahoma:
Something I have done for 10 years. When temp's are expected to be below freezing, I remove my water supply hose, and insert it in a 5 gal bucket with 2 gals of 99c a gallon windshield washer anti freeze. Run the machine until you see the blue liquid coming out of the end of your hose. Never has this failed. Keep the good ideas coming everyone! Lets have a good winter season. . . God Bless you all, and Happy Holiday!
Dave Warwick Dave & Millie's Spray & Wash Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Several tips from Daryl Mirza.
There are a number of FAA Advisory Circulars on the subject of ground deicing/anti-icing for both large and small aircraft. This three part article was based on AC 135-17, "Pilot Guide - Small Aircraft Ground Deicing." It contains, believe it or not, even more detailed information--especially on holdover times--than this article. There is also AC 120-58, "Pilot Guide - Large Aircraft Ground Deicing;" AC 135-16, "Ground Deicing and Anti-icing Training and Checking; AC 135-9, "FAR Part 135 Icing Limitations;" and AC 20-117, "Hazards Following Ground Deicing and Ground Operations in Conditions Conducive to Aircraft Icing."
All are available free from U.S. Department of Transportation, General Services Section, M-443.2, Washington, DC 20590.
From 3-7-97
Posted by Jason on February 17, 1997:
I've often wondered whether it is better to rinse a surface with water first and then apply soap or first apply soap and then rinse off. There may be no absolute rule but I see it 2 ways. First, by rinsing first you remove some of the dirty film but the downstroke is that you are apply soap over a wet surface so the soap will now be less effective- less concentrated and the soap also has to work through the wetness to get to the dirt. Or, second, when you first apply the soap and then rinse you can apply the soap directly onto the dirt but possibly you will be apply the soap onto parts of the dirty film that could be rinsed off with water anyway. Therefore wasting soap and wasting time because you have to go back at the dirt again, If anyone has any thoughts please share. Thanks, Jason.
---
Jason, You made some very good points and asked some very good questions. I think experience will tell you which way will work best for you.
With my experiece I have found this to be true: If you have an inch of dirt or mud on a surface, applying soap is a waste of time and money. Rinsing off first so the detergent can get to the surface is the only way to go here.
During the warmer months when road film and bugs are the problem, we soap first and then rinse. But this is where it gets tricky. The surface of a vehicle may be as much as 30 degrees warmer than the air temp. In this case we always wet them down first to cool them so our soap does not dry and also this helps to prevent the color of the paint from fading. You can go to KMart or WalMart and look at any car wax or detergent and it will always say right on the bottle, "Do not apply in direct sunlight." So with the soaps that we all use in this business, this is also true. Also something else I have found out is the color of the truck will have an effect on it's surface temp. A darker color will be much hotter and the soap will dry much faster than a lighter color. When it's too warm and when you should wet first will all come with experience and finding out what works best for you.
At this time, this procedure works best for me. A service crew usually has 5 men. We break it down like this, 1st man applies the detergent, next 2 brush (one man brushes high, one man brushes low) and the next 2 men are the rinse. With the way I have my trucks set up this is all done from one truck and one pump. We can average 10 tractors and 10 48' trailers per hour. Since we brush most everything now, our soap usage is down considerably. Again...this is what I have found that works best for me in this part of the country. The weather is always the biggest factor on our procedure.
As for houses, no matter what they are made of, brick, stone, siding, etc., we always wet them down first.
I hope you get alot of responses to this, it will be interesting to see how some of the other guys are doing it and how.
John Muller Mobile Wash Company
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Health & Wellness Sites of the Net:
American Medical Association http://www.ama-assn.org/
Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA) http://www.ama-assn.org/public/journals/jama/jamahome.htm
Go ask Alice http://www.columbia.edu/cu/healthwise/alice.html
Cancer Information http://www.medinfo.org
Dayspa Club http://www.dayspa.com/
Allergy Information Center http://www.kww.com/allergy/
Lewis Wasserman, MD., Booklet for New Parents http://members.aol.com/AllianceMD/book-let.html#congratulations
Tripod's Ask the Doctor http://www.tripod.com/living/ask_doc/
MedAccess Corporation http://www.medaccess.com
Centers for Disease Control http://www.cdc.gov/
For Anxious Parents http://www.parentsplace.com
Women's Health Specialists http://www.planetearth.net/SanDiego/DrRoss/submit.html
For Your Eyes Only http://www.visioncare.com
Something to Smile About http://www.dentalzone.com
Starwave Family Planet http://family.starwave.com
From: 3-28-97
Re: What hot water machine to buy? Posted by Rick, ProWash on March 12, 1997 In Reply to: What hot water machine to buy? posted by SPOTLESS Power Washing on March 12, 1997:
I have purchased two RK 21 units from Delco this last year. These machines work great. I owned a Landa several years ago, excellent machine, but almost twice the price.
The only problem I have had with the RK 21's is the in-line fuse holder on both machines got too hot and melted. I have since replaced them with heavy duty units and they work fine. Total cost for the repair about $3.00. When you buy a machine from Delco, even a budget one, they back it to the hilt. Expert advice, over night delivery on parts and accessories.
Other dealers downgrade these units but they don't offer a good reason. The components are the same as many of the higher dollar units, Briggs Vangard engines and Cat model 55 pumps. The RK 21 even has a very nice stainless steel coil cover at it's budget price, a high dollar option on other models. When I need another machine, I will buy another RK 21.
Richard Craig, ProWash Mobile, High Pressure Cleaning Service
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Posted by Chris Detter/ Sun Brite on March 20, 1997: In Reply to: Deck Cleaning posted by P.W.S on March 20, 1997:
What the ballpark $$$ for cleaning and sealing a Deck : By sq ft??? Thank you for the help.
I use $1.50/sq. ft. of the flat surface, an additional $50.00 if 2 story an additional $50.oo stairway. this is for cleaning & sealing. Tell the customer never to clean his deck unless he wishes to have you seal it too.
From 4-27-97
Tip of the week from Daryl Mirza:
We use a alkaline chemical for our cleaning and when we get a burn we use Coke or Pepsi to dilute the burning of the chemical. The other day one of our employees got chemical in his eye and I gave him a COKE. The acid in the soda neutralizes the alkaline in our chemical.
Daryl Mirza, Ducts Unlimited, Inc., email: daryl@ducts.com
This is passed on not as medical advice but as information that you can take to your Physican for Medical Advice.
From 6-30-97
Subject: My New Machine
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:51:37 EDT
I just wanted to tell you that I do appreciate you helping' me the other day when I was out in the field working. It's not often that one finds a company that holds hands as you guys do. I have always felt comfortable in doing business with Delco because you all want me to be informed and successful. Since I was in Ft Worth last Tuesday my machine has preformed great. Past along my thanks to Joe for helping me and teaching me how to test my burner.
Bill McFarlin
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Customer Service from Delco Cleaning Systems:
Service Hours: 8:00 am to 5:00 pm monday thru friday, central time. The telephone calls are answered by a live person not a computer. 90 percent of our orders are shipped within 24 hours.
We typically receive over 2,000 inbound toll free (800-433-2113) phones calls per month. These calls are for technical support and to place orders. An example is that during April of 1997 we received 2,288 calls lasting 9,492.1 minutes. This took a Staff of 5 Technical advisors and 2 secretaries to handle these calls in an efficient manner. Technical Staff is:
Joe Johnson, Production Supervisor and Technical Advisor: 14 years experience in Quality Control Zero Defects management on a national basis. Has extensive experience in waste water treatment technology. Been with Delco for 6 years, 4 years as an outside service technician. 4 Years experience as a Mobile Power Wash Operator.
Gerardo Perez, Shipping, Spanish Technical: 5 years experience repairing, and servicing of pressure washers. 4 experience as a Power Wash Operator. Has been with Delco 5 years.
Larry Hinckley, General Manager, Purchasing Agent, and Senior Technical Advisor: 30 years experience in electro-mechanical design and maintenance. Has 13 years experience with Delco in the areas of design, manufacturing, installation, maintenance, and operation of pressure washers, and recycle water treatment equipment.
Robert M. Hinderliter, President, WebMaster, Founder, and Technical Advisor: Bachelor of Science, 1964 and Master of Science, 1965 in Mechanical Engineering from Oklahoma State University. 7 years experience in Design of Aircraft for Cessna and Boeing Aircraft Companies and as a Jet Pilot for the Kansas Air National Guard flying F-100 and B-57 Jet Aircraft.
Founded what is now Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth in April of 1973. Delivered first Mobile Power Wash Rig for another contract cleaner in December, 1973. Founded and operated Mobile Enterprises, a mobile power wash company, for 10 years. Built the company up to 26 employees, 5 mobile power wash units and over $1,000,000.00 in sales then sold the company to John Unsworth who still owns and operates the company. Started training schools and training videos for Contract Cleaners in 1982.
Founded Power Washers of North America (PWNA) in the September-October, 1992 issue of the Delco Wats Blaster . The organization was officially established as a non- profit organization December 12, 1992 in Fort Worth, Texas. Presently a Distributor Member of PWNA.
From: 7-17-97
Hints for Low-Buck Advertising are now on the Internet at: http://www.dcs1.com/del/sales.html
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Posted by Jill@Gulf Coast Exterior Wash on July 12, 1997 : In Reply to: Advertising posted by Jeremiah S. Cruz on July 11, 1997:
Does anyone have any suggestions on advertising? I would prefer quality, but inexpensive, advertising. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Jill's Answer:
In conjunction with what Robert Hinderliter said...the CD rom that is available with 88 million households....here is what we do:
When we complete a job, I enter that job address into the system. The program then gives me an option of listing all of that persons neighbors. I then export (create a file) that listing of everyone on that street. I then import that file into Word Perfect and create a mailing list. I have a form in Word Perfect that I adjust for every job (I put in the address where we worked and what we did). The form then goes on with information about our company, etc. I print the addresses from the mailing list on one side, and the (we call it a neighbor form) on the other side; and I have a direct mailing. It has wokred VERY well. People like to see that you have done quality work for their neighbor, and they like the fact that the mailing comes with their name and address on it. Secondly, they have their neighbor as a reference creating good word of mouth. These neighbors might have seen you doing the work, but didn't approach you. Sending the mailing right after the job is done reminds them of your name creating name recognition. The cost is postage (we use oversized cards and we use stamps-not a bulk rate) is .32 per card (plus paper). It is not a complicated process to set up, I hope I have not made it seem that way! In a year of tracking exactally where each call comes from, the neighbor cards have gotten us the most work. Ironically, this form of advertising is the least expensive!
From: 8-1-97
Posted by Bret A. Lambdin on July 10, 1997:
Artillery (shotgun) fungus
Recently their has been many questions concerning this problem and how to address it. We have put together a report (attached) which explains this problem, and how to deal with it. It was complied from our own observations as well as information from the Wolman Co. and Ohio State University. Feel free to pass it along to others.
We give it to our prospective clients, and have also passed it along to insurance companies.
ARTILLERY (SHOTGUN) FUNGUS
by Bret A. Lambdin
Lambdin's
Pressure Washing & Protective Coatings
Artillery or shotgun
fungus has been a ever increasing problem in Ohio. In 1995 when we started
our pressure washing business, we saw no cases of this on any homes, in
1996, three cases were observed, and as of 6/25/97, we have looked at over
a dozen homes with the spores from this fungus on them.
So what is Artillery fungus?
Occasionally we get a call about tiny, "mysterious black specks" appearing on a homes siding, a wooden deck, or other surfaces. The spots seem impossible to completely remove. Though the specks appear to resemble insect feces, scale crawlers or possible air-borne pollutants, they are actually mature spore masses expelled from fruiting bodies of a fungus known as "shot gun" or "artillery" fungus. This fungus develops in organic mulches. It is usually a greater problem in spring and fall, under cool, moist conditions.
Spores can be "shot" as high as the second floor of a building, and can spot downspouts, soffits, windows, cars, etc. According to some scientists, the fungus can generate up to 1/10,000 of a horsepower when expelling these spores.
These spores are one to two millimeters in diameter, black, sticky, and globular in appearance. The spores can also ruin the appearance of a wooden deck, though in these situations, it is easily cleaned and re coated.
We recommend using only non chlorine based cleaners, in conjunction with a coating which contains an EPA registered fungicide, such as Wolman F&P.
It is theorized that artillery fungus can complete its life cycle only on wood (as in hardwood mulch), but not on bark, which has a lower carbon to nitrogen ratio.
How can the Artillery Fungus be removed?
Attempting to remove the black tar-like spots from surfaces is generally futile, and extreme care should be used on aluminum siding and car paint since the finish may be damaged. In our experience, removing the fungus is possible through the use of a high flow rate of water (at least 5.5 g.p.m.) at 3000 psi, with hot water, at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, however, this process is only suitable if the fungus has not been in place for an extended period of time. The longer the fungus has been in place, the harder it is to remove from the siding. Generally, the time span for fairly easy removal, we feel, is approximately 2-3 weeks. Also this process will not work on most aluminum siding as the paint will not hold up to the extreme heat and pressure. Caution must also be taken on PCV coated siding, as the PCV surface does not withstand extreme temperatures well If the fungus has set in to the point that water removal is not possible, on vinyl, we have found that by washing with the same process, (thus removing the tops of the fungus, leaving only a tan or light brown spot) then rubbing with a fine grade of steel wool will remove the spots. This process is very time consuming though, and is only a last resort to removal of the fungus. This process should not be used on aluminum or PCV coated siding.
What if we have this problem? Can it be prevented?
For locations plagued with this problem, consider switching to an inorganic mulch such as stone, pea gravel, etc. Or, a yearly addition of fresh mulch, so it completely covers old mulch, may lessen the problem, though it still may reoccur. We recommend complete removal of existing mulch prior to the application of an inorganic mulch, in order to lessen the chance of reoccurrence. It is also theorized that bark mulches may reduce the problem.
We also recommend treating the surrounding area with a fungicide, as well as cleaning up any animal droppings and rotting wood, as these are also prime conditions for the artillery fungus to grow in.
One other alternative is to apply a specialty coating to the surface, designed to inhibit the ability of the fungus and mold from growing on the siding. Though some spores may still appear, it will be much easier to remove as the spores will adhere to the coating, and not actually on the siding.
From: 8-15-97
Posted by Dan - Carolina Power Wash , Inc.
Has anyone out there ever used a Temp Service for labor? I can't seem to find any good reliable help and buisness is growing by leaps and bounds! I need help! How do they work and are they worth the money? Thanks in advance! Dan McQueen Carolina Power Wash , Inc. 803-324-4449
Answer No.1 by Robert M. Hinderliter/Delco Cleaning Systems
Several years ago we started using Temp Service for all temp employees and new hires. We use Temp to Perm service for new employees. They are Temps for 90 days before being added to our payroll.
We tell the Temp Service exactly what we are looking for. They do the interviewing. We have the option of interviewing new employees or not. When they send a new temp out we have the option of using them for one day or more. Our choice. Its better than interviewing.
In 90 days you can evaluate work habits, attendance, attitude, etc. Of course the temp has the same option, they can quit anytime.
It you do not keep someone there are no unemployment benefits against you, if they get hurt it is not against your workmen's comp in most states, etc.
After 24 years in business I find this to be the best way to obtain new employees. It is good for both parties.
You will need to survey the Temp Services in your area. You will find good ones and bad ones. If you have unique requirement you may want to give your job requirements to several services. In our case we require Spanish/English speaking if possible, so we cater to Spanish Agencies.
Temp Agencies specialize in different areas of the labor market. You will have to call an interview the Temp Services to find one the can help you.
Give Temp Agencies a try in your area.
Robert Hinderliter Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth 800-433-2113
Answer No 2:Posted by Scott/Power Cleaning Services, Inc., u4c6a8nb@coastalnet.com
Dan:
I spoke to two of them in preparation for some large jobs I'd
hoped to get. I also spoke to some people who worked for them to get a
feel for things. I'll break what I know down as follows.
Advantages:
They'll provide training if needed and they also have common safety equipment available to issue to their people at no charge to you.
Workman's comp. is included in the package. You pay an hourly rate to the agency and in our area most charge you $8.00 per hour and pay the temp. employee $6.00. They keep a time card that you sign to confirm. The agency cuts the employee the check. If you want to pay more to the employee you can but it must all go through the agent.
The agent is responsible for replacing people who don't show up. They give you a number to call and a time frame.
You can normally have the same guy every day so you don't have to retrain all the time.
Disadvantages:
No show's are very common. From what I hear some agencies have a much higher no show rate than others. Even though they say they replace them you know what a hassle and long wait that will be. I hate to say it but I guess it's not to surprising that the motivation level isn't always what it could be.
After last years hurricanes I had guy's (not from the agency but the same principle) that I paid well and would pick up and drive to work. I'd get to the door and the 22 yr. old's mother would say "his back hurts today". I think dependability is the biggest downfall unless you get lucky with the right people. After a set time you can even hire their people if you decide to keep someone on.
I suggest you check with all the agencies and ask about "no show" percent, etc. Hope this helped a little.
Scott
From: 8-22-97
From: Bob Garypie
Subject: Re: Temporary Employees, This Week on
the Net, 8-15-97
Robert,
I own a small deck restoration company in Michigan,
Washtenaw Power Washing. I too tried to use temps, however all of the temp
services in this area prohibit sending temps to work at residential
locations. Since nearly all of our jobs are residential homes, they would
not send a temp to us. Not sure how you got around that, or if it's
different there than here, but that's my $.02 worth.
Signed: Bob Garypie
From: 8-29-97
-----------------
At "Today's Homeowner" is a web site with lots of information for home repair including decks. Go to: http://www.todayshomeowner.com/
----------------------
"Painting and Wallcovering Contractor" has lots of useful information at: http://www.paintstore.com/
There is a good article on decks, "Understand the variables of deck finishing, and you'll never run out of business" BY JOHN SANGER at: http://www.paintstore.com/book/pwc/PWC_Archives/wood/exterior/dck0596.html
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There is a variety of information for the business person (including small business too!) at: http://www.arthurandersen.com/ The site is full of articles on various business subjects. You can find them by going to their search engine at: http://www.arthurandersen.com/firmwide/search.htm
From 9-5-97
The Navy is sponsoring a JOINT SERIVCE POLLUTION PREVENTION OPPORTUNITY HANDBOOK at: http://enviro.nfesc.navy.mil/p2library/index2.html#search There is a lot of good information and worth your time to search the site for information you can use. An example is the article below about steam cleaning being a alternative to solvent cleaning at: http://enviro.nfesc.navy.mil/p2library/8-06_896.html
From: 9-12-97
From the BBS:
Name: Barry - Hydro Pressure Systems Email: barrywoods@graffiticontrol.com
Subject: RE: cleaning gum off sidewalks
Comments: :this message is to anyone who may have info about how we can get gum off of a sidewalk. need quickly have a job this weekend. thanks.
Barry's Answer:
You can try a plethora of products on the market, from a freon-type aerosol that "freezes" the gum so you can scrape it off to products that dissolve petroleum based products, such as Dissolve, Lift Off, etc. The bottom line is that nothing will do it faster and easier and better than a 3,000-4,000 psi unit with 190 degree water at 5-6 gallons per minute. We've been doing this for 22 years, and believe me, I have tried most everything. If you don't have the equipment, you shouldn't be doing the work. Good luck.
--------
Name: A-Tech Powerwashing
Subject: RE: RE: spiderwebs:
HELLO OUT THERE, THIS IS MY FIRST TIME POSTING, I HOPE I DO THIS RIGHT. I CLEAN THE FRONT OF THIS BARBER SHOP, AT LEAST 3-4 TIME DURING THE SUMMER MONTH'S. HE HAS LITE THAT STAY ON ALL NITE. WITHIN 2 WEEKS THE FRONT OF THE BUILDING IS COVERED WITH COB WEBS FROM SPIDERS. IS THEIR ANYTHING OUT ON THE MARKET THAT CAN PREVENT THIS? PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANKS GENE. YOU CAN E-MAIL ME AT sams@harborcom.net
Answer: Gene you may want to try Downy Softner sheets you use in a dryer. We have a 30 ft Sea Ray on lake erie and tons of spiders 3 - 4 sheets in the boat and no more spiders. try it under your home to see if it works as well for U. hope this helps. ps. lot less expensive and no un-needed chemicals;)
From: 9-24-97
Posted on the BBS:
Posted by Robert Liles on June 25, 1997
One of my customers has a problem with skateboarders. They rub the edges
of concrete planters, walls, etc. with bee's wax so that they may slide
across these edges. Damage results to the concrete as well as any
surrounding landscaping. The wax leaves a dark stain on concrete.
Questions:
Best way to remove wax?
Can it be done with cold water washer?
Ideas for discouraging skateboarders?
Answer No. 1
Posted by Rick, ProWash on June 25, 1997
I have cleaned some skateboard wax at one of the strip malls that I service. It comes off very easily with plain hot water. I wouldn't want to try it with cold. I think if you could hit the spot at least once a week for a while, the Extreme Games wana-bes would move on to another training site. Good luck,
Rick ProWash Exterior Cleaning Specialists
Answer No. 2
Posted by Elite Painting Concepts on June 25, 1997
I would spread a little sand around the area after you get rid of the wax,once the sand is down you wont have any more skateboarders,ever seen a skateboarder carrying a broom,once they find the sand they will leave,I would keep it down 2 weeks after they realize it is there to stay they will not come back,clean up the sand and proceed with life!!>>Todd
From: 10-6-97
How to get stains out of concrete?
This question comes up again, again, and again. The problem is that concrete is like a sponge and stains will penetrates into the concrete.
Rust and oil stains are the most common stains encountered. In some parts of the country the ground water contains iron oxides and lawn sprinklers will stain the concrete. Unless you are treating a stain that you have past experience with never tell a customer that you can guarantee to remove 100 percent of the stain. However, you can almost always remove 80 to 90 percent of the stain and this leaves only a shadow. On each subsequent cleaning you will continue to remove 80 to 90 percent of the stain and the stain the shadow will get lighter and lighter.
All stains require testing and you should try the following: Strong mixture of caustic detergent, strong solvents for oil, tar, and asphalt stains, aluminum brightener, Koil Kleen, muratic acid, Oxalic Acid, Iron Out (carried by hardware stores), restoration acid cleaners and laundry iron stain removers. If all of the forementioned fail you can try sand or soda blasting. However, since stains are sucked into the concrete blasting may do more harm the good. Another technique that works good is to cover up the stain with cement powder. This is done by first cleaning the concrete as good as possible then while the concrete is still wet sprinkling Portland Cement Powder on the stain to hide it. This should last 30 to 60 days before the cement wears off.
Remember, there is no product that removes all stains. There are products that can remove 100 percent of some stains. Trial and error is the only sure method of finding out what will work in your area with your stains.
From: 10-10-97
Posted on the BBS:
Posted by Happy Jack, FocusJac@Magicnet.net
I'm pushing 11 Gal/Minute and 2,000 Psi and having a hard time holding the wand using various size nozzle and multi nozzles. How can I counter the back pressure? Any one using counter weights? Any suggestions would be appreciated. (I perfer not to use a flat washer for various reasons). Thanks for you comments.
Answer: by Robert M. Hinderliter/Delco Clng Sys, delco@dcs1.com
Back pressure is directly related to PSI and GPM. Double either your PSI or GPM and you will double the back pressure. Then there is apparent (Phantom) back pressure. This back pressure is caused by having a large bend (generally greater than 20 degrees) at the end of the wand. This is used by a lot of manufacturers to make the wand feel like it has more pressure than it really does. Angles up to 45 degrees are used for this technique.
The minimum back pressure is when you can hold the wand level with the ground and the wand is weightless. This is doe by adjusting the angle at the end of the wand toward the ground just enough to balance the weight of the wand. Start at about 15 degrees and decrease or increase as needed. Notice that if you increase or decrease the pressure it will change this angle for the wand to be weightless.
Notice that you can also change the back pressure by either decreasing or increasing the pressure or flow rate.
---------------
Posted by MPW
Can any anyone tell me the pros and cons of acid washing trucks. Also can anyone help with explaining methods.
Answer: Posted by David Olson, dolson@tps-inc.com
The pros of acid washing trucks is that if done correctly they look much better. Generally speaking an acid wash refers to brightening the aluminum on a vehicle. Wheels, fuel tanks, walk boards, dump trailers, rails (trim) on vans, etc. It also brightens paint.
The cons of acid washing are many. The acid that we use is a 24% hydrofloric base. HF has been classified as a posion and of course it is very corrosive. It kills plants and etches glass. If you get it on bare skin it burns. If you apply it to polished wheels or tanks, it will remove the polish. Another con, is it is expensive. Our current cost is almost $10 per gallon. To clean a very soiled 30' dump trailer we may use 2 gallons. The last time that we took samples of our processed water it contained our rinse water with an alkaline detergent. The acid was neutralized with the high ph of our degreaser. In short this type of product is a "Bad Actor".
Because the cons outweigh the pros we very seldom acid wash trucks anymore.
-----------
Posted by Steve / Custom Cleaning, bedair@iamerica.net
Has anyone used a Rust-Oleum striping machine? This is a small 4 wheeled machine that uses Rust-Oleum 18 oz. Arosel cans. It sells for $ 100. Sprays a 2" to 4" stripe.
I have had a couple of small jobs that I could have sold this service. I do not want to get in the striping business, But if only a few stripes to touch-up ?
Thanks in advance / Steve
Answer: Posted by Michael @ Centex, mtessaro@thrifty.net
Steve,
I have or had one of those, I gave it to the local Soccer club to mark thier fields. I had problems with the cans being old and they would clog up. It seemed a little rinky dinky.
Here is what I use to stripe when asked and this is a lot more economical.
What you need is traffic paint, comes in colors( yellow, red, blue,
white ) use latex its durable and easy to cleanup.
4" rollers
with lots of nap to hold paint and handles.
5 gal. bucket with paint
strainer that hangs on inside ( don't use roller pan ).
1X4X12 to use
as straight edge.
Thats all you need for restriping. On different
occasion I have done several Church size lots using this setup with
professional results. I not in the striping business but I might do 3 or 4
jobs a year. Hope this helps you.
Michael Tessaro Centex Pressure
Washing
From: 10-24-97
Posted on the BBS:
Posted by Neil, The Deck Doctors, deckdrs@rogers.wave.ca
Hi All,
Our Deck Cleaning season is coming to a close soon, and I
have to meet a local Marina operator TOMORROW, for some immediate work !
Problem is I've never done Boats (Freshwater lakes), before. I have 3 Cold
water, 3500 psi, 3-5 gpm machines. Will my machines do the job, or is HOT
water essential? Also do I need to use any sort of wash (chemicals) or is
water enough? Will they have to be scrubbed with brushes? You get the
idea. I don't want to lose out on our "last kick at the can",
before the snow flies, (sorry, sad thought though). Any responses would be
greatly appreciated, or you can email me.
Thanks in advance, Neil, The Deck Doctors
Answer: Posted by Rick Till, 12till@bellsouth.net
Neil:
Be careful, boats have a gel coat on them and if you use too much pressure you could cut right through it and start to push water under it. If there are barnacles the easiest way to remove these is to crack the hard shell then scrape them off with a plastic putty knife. Always try to clean the boats just as soon as they are lifted from the water (it makes it much easier), otherwise soak them good to ease cleaning. Another point of interest is the water line, there will be a dirty line there do your best to clean that up as the owners will still be able to see that when it is put back in the water. I don't think you will need a hot water machine it might make it easier but you should be able to get by. Final note, the bottoms of boats are painted with an anti-foulant type paint (poison to micro-scopic growth) do not remove too much of this medium to low pressure will probably be enough to clean the scum off and remove the oxidized layer of paint and reactivate the anti-foulant paint.
Good luck
(Robert's note: In some areas it is Environmentally Correct to let wash water from cold water washing with out chemicals return to the lake. A lot of contractors use a Heavy Duty Caustic Detergent like DNB-1430 and an acid like A-400 Aluminum Brightener. Do not let this wash water run back into the lake, but divert it to sanitary sewer.)
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Posted by Robert M. Hinderliter/Delco Cleaning Systems, delco@dcs1.com
Subject: Environmental Power Washing
Environmental Power Washing is not just Mobile Recycle Pressure Washing on a Portable Vinyl Wash Pit. These are but two elements of Environmental Power Washing just like "a", "b", "c" are letters of the alphabet. Simply stated Environmental Power Washing is Pressure Washing with "No Off Property Discharge" and discharging your wash water to the Sanitary Sewer. This definition will fit most washing operations that are being done within Environmental Guidelines. It should be noted that "No off property discharge" means above and below ground and discharge to Sanitary Sewer means any place that is properly approved to receive your wash water. The most common discharge location is Municipal Sanitary Sewer Systems (or POTW: Public Owned Treatment Works). The preferred entry point is a Sand Trap, Grease Trap. Many municipalities are also allowing other points of entry such as sinks, clean outs, commodes, etc.
For Power Wash Contractors of the 21st Century water management will be as important as the pressure washing. You will now have to have a tool box full of tools for proper water management. Just as a carpenter has more than a hammer in his tool box it will be necessary for the Pressure Contractor to have more that one type of device to capture, control, and clean wash water with. Because washing with a Recycling Systems on a Portable Vinyl Wash Pad is the most expensive way to wash an item this needs to be the option of last resort.
Recycle Systems do not remove the Total Dissolved Solids, Heavy Metals, Detergents, Herbicides, Insecticides, or Pesticides. Hence the longer you wash with Recycled Water the harder it is to get something clean and you have to rinse with fresh water. Therefore washing with Recycled Water needs to be the option of last resort. The same is true for washing on a portable vinyl wash pit. Articles have to be moved to the wash pit. Often times washing items in place then capturing the wash water is a less expensive option.
Many municipalities will now accept wash water with minimal pretreatment. This is because the impact of the wash water from Contract Cleaners on the on the POTW (Sewer Treatment Plant) is insignificant. It should be noted that each municipality has the authority to determine what is acceptable within it’s city limits. The problem is if you are in a Metroplex area where there are many municipalities each one will probably have a difference set of Environmental Pressure Washing Guidelines. What causes this is mostly politics and jealousies among the cities.
Common water control devices are (Tools for your tool box): Recycling Systems; Pretreatment or sewer discharge Systems; Limited Recycling Systems; Wash Pits (portable vinyl wash pads), Vacuum Sludge Filtering Systems; Wet-Dry Vacuums, Sump Pumps; Drain Covers; Portable Dams; Vacu-booms; Oil Absorbent Pads, booms, pillows, and tubes; plastic sheeting; Filter Tubs; buckets; pans; and squeegees. You will be designing all sorts of devices to control the water flow. Sometime that will just be using the terrain and natural drainage and catching the water at a low spot to accomplish "no off property discharge". Do not forget about evaporation. A lot of contractors have used evaporation effectively enough that they can wash for several hours and only have to recover less than 55 gallons of wash water. This has been done mostly by letting wash water make long runs across concrete parking lots then capturing the water just before it leaves the property. After the washing is finished they clean up the concrete. "No off property discharge" has been achieved and the wash water has been discharged to sanitary sewer. Environmental guidelines have been met.
For more information see "Environmental Mobile Power Washing, Reality of Enforcement" on the internet at: http://www.dcs1.com/del/delpg5/rept507.html; and "Fort Worth Environmental Regulations for Mobile Pressure Power Wash Cosmetic Cleaning" on the internet at: http://www.dcs1.com/del/delpg5/fterpt.html. Copies can also be ordered from Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth at 800-433-2113.
Responce Posted by Chris Jaccarino, lve@enter.net
Robert
Your point about revenue streams vs. the person making the statement is good and I will agree with it for the most part. However, as an environmental consulting/services firm and PW contractor, I can (say) that in my company's experience, the cost to perform environmental PWing is not worth the increased fees as compared to non-environmental PWing (i.e., we can make more money, per job, if we provide non-environmental PW work). The equipment we must utilize, the additional labor to setup for a specific job, etc. are not justified by the increased fee....we provide the service, but we would rather not....non-environmental PWing is more profitable. Just our position. Wondering what other PW contracts feel? Opinions? Experiences?
I can also imagine the scenario of 40 regulators vs. 100 contractors...have been in similar situations during public hearings when I was a regulatory person myself. However, when discussions become so heated, it is an indication that something is terribly wrong and changes must be made. My personal opinion is that the whole environmental movement has become excessive...and this from a person who's livelihood comes from environmental work. You may not believe this, but I probably talk my company out of at least $40,000 in environmental work per year. People call with belief that they need a specific report or study and after speaking to them at great length, we often direct them to an option which will give them better results without ever trying them to sell them on service provided by my company. The environmental movement has become sooooo costly to individuals and small firms that I feel real pity for such people. I like clean water and clean air, however, what people must go through to comply has become too excessive (once again my opinion). The burdens of environmental compliance in this country can be observed quite readily by the amount of manufacturing businesses which have left the country. Give this country a few more years and it will become evident in smaller businesses as well.
Finally, with regard to the inspectors identity, I only requested the inspectors name be email to ME, not posted on the BBS....I would like to speak directly to the gentlemen. If he is uncomfortable with leaving his name, agency and phone number or identifying himself, he can call me direct at 610-966-3500 and let him be in control the release of personal information.
Chris
PS. Sorry, and please accept my apologies, if this post or any of my recent posts have put a negative in anyones mind. I tremendously enjoy monitoring and participating on this BBS....it is the best BBS. I really appreciate the fact that you folks do NOT strip or otherwise modify postings (for the most part). The freedom of speech you (Delco) allow is fantastic. The fact that I have some strong opinions on certain matter is simply because the matter is close to home.
From: 10-31-97
Just a short note on early containment technology that Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth was aware of in the 1970's and 1980's.
Portable Wash Pits (Containment Devices) were made several ways:
1.Flat tarps which were bought from tent and awning companies, they were shored up with 2x4's, PVC pipe, corrugated drain and sewer pipe, sand bags, and Pool Cover Water Bags (there were a lot of Mobile Power Wash Operators who did Swimming Pool cleaning so Pool Water Cover Bags was a natural for them).
2. Flat Metal Containment Pads with sides about 6 inches to 1 foot high. A lot of these were common for rail road application. Usually these were made out of aluminum so that they were light weight and could easily be moved. Delco introduced a smaller version in the December 1986 issue of "The Delco Wats Blaster" for Kitchen Exhaust Cleaners.
3. Wooden enclosures wash pads with 2X4's duct taped to the floor.
4. Vinyl Pools made for other applications. A child swimming pool like you can buy at K-Mart was common.
5. 55 Gallon Drums, 55 Gallon Plastic Trash Cans on casters, 5 Gallon Buckets, and Bread Pans were common for Vent-A-Hood and Kitchen Equipment Contract Cleaners. These items were discussed in the December, 1986 issue of the Delco Wats Blaster in an article on "Kitchen Vent-A-Hood and Exhaust Cleaning".
6. Plastic lined pits were and still are common in the Oil Field Industry.
Portable Dams were made several ways:
1. From fire hoses with the ends capped off. The more common was was to use a vinyl fire hose that would collapse flat when not pressurized. They were filled with sand or water. Ends were typically capped off by rolling the ends two or three turns then clamping with a heavy spring clamp. (A lot of Firemen operated Moble Power Wash Companies part time so this was a natural for them).
2. 2x4's that were duct taped to the floor.
3. Sand Bags or Sand Tubes.
Drain Covers were made several ways:
1. Most common was probably sand bags lined with a vinyl trash bag so it was water proof.
2. Plumber Balloons were inserted in the drain pipe. (A lot of plumbers were using Pressure Washers to unblock sewer pipes so this was a natural for them)
3. Vinyl Pools made for other applications. A child swimming pool like you can by at K-Mart was common. I had a Contract Cleaner explain to me that as long as the water inside the pool was higher than the water outside the pool that it would seal a storm drain just fine. But be sure and fill the pool with clean water.
Water Transfer Devices:
1. Wet/Dry Vacuums
2. Sump Pumps
3. Delco introduced the Wet/Dry Vacuum with an internal automatic sump pump in the December 1987 issue of the Delco Wats Blaster. It was advertised as "Designed to pick up and discharge cleaning water from a High Pressure Washer". This product was introduced to solve a need to pump Waste Wash Water to the Sanitary Sewer.
---------------------------
Email to "This Week on the Net"
We have been using within the public domain portable containment systems under EPA regulations. In the area around portable fuel tanks we build pits with berms that are lined plastic or rubber. Because of NPDES Permits Solid Waste Disposable Sites cannot accept liquid. Therefore, we build plastic lined basins for washing concrete trucks. Wash Water is collected in the basin and allowed to evaporate. The solid waste is then disposed of properly.
At many restaurants, there are portable waste grease and cooking oil containers.
The list of public domain practice is endless. I believe that such practices are under the public domain because legislation and regulations made it so. I do not believe that the EPA laws were intended to give only one person the right for portable containment systems while everybody else must build permanent facilities.
Five years ago, we had to put up a portable vehicle wash station to wash trucks leaving construction sites with mud on the wheels. The water, silt, mud, and oil was treated as hazardous waste. In Hawaii gas and oil spills, contaminated soil is treated as hazardous materials.
We also have to vacuum up waste water and dust created by sawing concrete or asphalt.
Without clear under standing exactly what is the patent ENVIRONMENTAL CLEANING SYSTEMS INC. has, it is very hard to determine if in fact they do have an enforceable patent.
Only time will tell. Who will rise to champion the cause?
Henry W. Aylward, P.E. - President
Aylward Enterprises,
Incorporated
99-782 Nahiolea Street
Aiea, Hawaii 96701-3241
Phone (808) 487-5090 FAX (808) 488-5631
e-mail:
haylward@gte.net
From: 11-7-97
Posted on the BBS:
San Francisco Bay Area Best Management Practices for Mobile Power Washing is at: http://www.ceta.org/cover.htm
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Posted by: the-washer@MSN.com
I have just recently been informed by one of my major accounts that the environmental dept. is investigating my recovery techniques. I am one of two mobile contractors that offers any recovery in this area, although it is a very large metropolitan area. In the past enforcement has been lax at best and in reality nonexistent. The reason I am writing this is because the reason for the investigation is not my fault!!! I know that many are saying sure it isn't, but let me explain. The customer is a food distribution service. They have very pointed in their desire that I recover my wash water which I have been doing since I have had the account. The problem is my customer washes out the inside of their trailers themselves and just let it run into the retention basin in there yard. Now the reason I am being investigated is that the city environmental inspector was riding his bicycle home from work one day, Not my wash day, and slipped in the goo from the trailers and got mad. Now the word of warning, If you see a customer doing something that is not in the guidelines for the area, make sure that they take care of it before you start washing. Hopefully this will keep someone else from getting their tail caught in a governmental wringer.
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To Neil at Decks Doctors,
We often power-wash boats here in Hawaii(salt water vessels only). If their is bottom paint their is no problem with our 3200 psi and afterwards the owner will always repaint the bottom . In our past experience fresh water boats will have the green slimy fungus before barnacles, therefore the barnacles remove with ease, we've done it with as low as 1000psi. My advice is to always tell the customer when you finish there is the possibility of repainting the bottom, not from the psi but from the damage that barnacles cause. Good luck. Scott & Ray >Power-Washing Hawaii<
From: 12-12-97
Posted on the BBS:
Posted by Howard Walker / Pro-Clean, pro-clean@freeyellow.com
:Hello all. I have a privacy fence 6 foot hi. 250 ft. long in need of cleaning and sealing. QUESTION IS what is the going rate, do i need to clean both sides, i look at one side the neighbor sees the other, thanks for the advice..
Answer by: Howard Walker
I feel that I have mastered a good technique in cleaning the "alternate board" or "shadow box" fence (as it is referred in the fencing industry). Cleaning an extremely dirty fence takes about 15 minutes per 8 foot long panel (one side). More often than not, I charge by the hour ($60 / hr.). A good sealant will cost around $70 per 5 gal. bucket. Most manufacturers claim coverage of 250 sq. ft. per gal. This is possible if brushing it on. When spraying, figure around 150 to 175 sq. ft. per gal.
If you don't clean and seal both sides, it is only going to be a matter of time before the fence falls apart from weathering. One side will be cleaned and sealed. The other will be dirty, exposed to the weather, mold and the sun's UV will be taking it's toll. Enough said??
By all means, don't use a "water repellent" (like Thompson's). It's a waste of money. It doesn't penetrate the wood and will wash away in a matter of months. I've had good luck with Wolmans and Behr (Behr is available at Home Depot). Be sure whatever you buy that it is a "sealer" and has a rating as a "UV" treatment. This will slow down sunlight deteoriation of the wood.
If you do the job yourself instead of contracting out, you'll need a good cleaner...check the label. Don't purchase something with bleach (sodium hypoclorite). It will only kill the mildew and fungus. Wolman's makes a very good deck and siding cleaner (sodium percarbonate).
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Posted by Jill@Gulf Coast Exterior Wash, jill@gcextwash.com
:THINKING ABOUT ACCEPTING CREDIT CARDS.DO MANY OF YOU GUYS DO SO AND IS IT WORTH IT ALSO WHO IS A GOOD COMPANY TO GO WITH?THANKS
Answer by Jill
Steve,
It is worth it. We went with a company called EMS
(Electronic Merchants Systems, Inc.) Our deal was:
$295.00 to own the
processing terminal and a $35.00 application fee. We pay $.24 per
transaction (we went with the system where you punch the card number into
the machine rather than the system that transmits via our modem line -
which is a cheaper transaction fee) and a $5.00 monthly statement fee.
What made it a good deal for us (at the time - almost a year ago) is the
machine. We own it for $295.00. There were companies that were offering "deals"
where you leased the machine for $39.95 per month for 3 years! I don't
know if EMS offers the same deal, but be sure you compare apples to apples
when you are searching for a company. EMS 800-476-5020.
Good Luck!
Jill
Gulf Coast Exterior Wash
From: 12-19-97
Posted on the BBS:
Posted by Howard Walker / Pro-Clean, pro-clean@freeyellow.com
:How Would you Clean a Tent 60' in diameter ? Would you have then take it down or leave it up>? soap it w/housewash / dwell 15mins / Warm water wash using a Rotating tip/ your comments are thankful. Signed: Ss PowerWash
Answer by Howard:
If it is canvas (safe bet) it can be cleaned set up or torn down (if you have a nice clean area, like a pre cleaned asphalt parking lot). I will assume the tent is 10 to 12 feet high. If it is not too dirty, I would wet the tent down, pre spray on a mild detergent and wash with water not hotter than 100 degrees or so.
If it is a vinyl tent (if it has colors, you can bet it is vinyl) then wet, use a mild detergent and a long handled long nap scrub brush to hand scrub and rinse with cold water).
If you wash it in the upright position, allow a few days to dry (and the ground around it, thereby not getting it dirty again when it is torn down.) The asphalt parking lot is the best, however you will have to make sure it is clean and debris free. That way nothing will tear into the tent when cleaning or folding it up.
let us know how it goes.... Regards, Howard Walker / Pro-Clean
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Question Posted by Brian
I have a question how do decrease overspray with my airless sprayers. I own the Wagner 505 and their new 1/2 horsepower model. I realize that changing the tips periodically helps, but that gets a little expensive. Would smaller or larger tips increase or decrease overspay. I use the 413 tip on the 505 model and the 415 tip on the 1/2 horsepower model. Correct me if I wrong, would a larger tip alow more sealant out with less mist, therefore less overspray?
A tip that I have come up with to help control overspray is to have an employee hold a sheet behind the area being sprayed by another employee (especially on spindles). Believe me, I cover and tarp everything in site. I'd rather spend a little more money paying my employees to tarp and cover everything than paying for replacement of siding, plants, or bushes.
Answer Posted by Chris Jaccarino, lve@enter.ent
We use three methods:
1. Large refrigerator cardboards around all points of contact with the house and deck.
2. A portable, on-site assembled 10' long x 10' high PVC frame which holds canvas tarps with clamps
3. A electric powered circulation fan or leaf blower when the mist appears to be heading towards an undesired area and we can controll it any other way.
We rarely require the use of two people for overspray protection. We typically set up the entire protection and then spray. On single story homes we often hang the tarp from the gutters,,,that way the entire wall is protected.
Happy Holidays
Chris
Answer Posted by marc wilson @ wilson's power washing, mwilson5@ix.netcom.com
Hey brian,
i have tried almost every type of sprayer out there
and have found that an H.V.L.P. ( high volume, low pressure) system works
best. I have a Titan Pro Finish TS50. we have no overspray, cover no
bushes, and only use a small spray shield up against siding, this thing
flat out works.. It cost $1347.00 brand new, and in my opinion is worth
twice that much. I can scan the information and pics for you, just e-mail
me. marc
Answer Posted by Chris Detter/ Sun Brite Deck Sealing, cdett@mindspring.com
Hey Brian,
I have pretty much overcome the overspray problem, Try
using a graco 211 tip. It puts out a 4 inch pattern, for spindles you can
tilt the direction to almost the exact width. If your interested the next
PWNA conference is in AZ in March, I may be doing a free deck school on
site there. Good luck and Happy Holidays
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