MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS for the chemicals listed below are available at http://www.dcs1.com/msds/ .
Mix all powders using 1/2 pound (8 oz.) per gallon of water to make a liquid concentrate.
W-200 Spray Wax - Mix two cups of wax to five gallons of water to make a liquid concentrate.
DNB-1430 Mix Kit - Dissolve in 55 gallons of water to make a liquid concentrate.
Dilute R-109 or V-505Liquid Concentrate 100 to 1. For a wax-like sheen, cut R-111 Concentrate 100 to 1. (Note: R-111 is also an excellent hand wash detergent).
Dilute R-109 or V-505Liquid Concentrate 75 to 1. For a wax-like sheen cut R-111 Concentrate 75 to 1.
Mix R-109 or V-505 Liquid Concentrate 50 to 1. For very dirty rigs, boost with R-202 in a 3 to 1 ratio, or use DNB-1430 presoak cut 5 to 1. Some fleets clean up quite well simply by presoaking with DNB-1430 and following with a hot water rinse.
VR-3 Trailer Decal and Truck Paint Remover is the best product for this job. Most decals are on aluminum or stainless steel tanks, and VR-3 decal remover will not affect most aluminum or stainless steel, but testing is required. With skill, a decal can be removed from a painted surface by just applying PVR-3 to the surface of the decal.
Cut W-200 Liquid Concentrate 75 to 1. For even application and spot reduction on cars and pickups, it is best to apply it hot and follow with a cold rinse. On heavier surfaces like homes and trailers, the cold rinse is not necessary. This process reduces dirt adhesion, enhances appearance, and extends the life of your wash job.
Mix R-109 or V-505 Liquid Concentrate 40 to 1. For very dirty rigs boost with R-202, cut 3 to 1, or use DNB-1430 presoak cut 5 to 1. DNB-1430, cut 40 to 1, can also be used as the detergent.
Cut R-109 or V-505 Liquid Concentrate 30 to 1. Presoak with a liquid concentrate, cut 5 to 1, made from R-109, V-505, DNB-1430, or V-502.
Mix R-109 or V-505 Liquid Concentrate 50 to 1. Scrub heavy carbon exhaust areas with DNB-1430, cut 30 to 1.
Pre-spray a liquid concentrate of R-109, V-502, V-505, or DNB-1430 cut 10 to 1, and wash with a liquid concentrate of R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430 cut 40 to 1. This will kill the smell and remove the smoke damage, but you will not be able to remove the char from the brick, masonry, or wood. During a normal cleanup following a fire, after removing the smoke residue, everything close to the heat source will be charred and you will be able to see the heat gradient in the walls and flooring.
Cut R-109, or V-505, DNB-1430 Liquid Concentrates 50 to 1. To kill mold and mildew, add one-part bleach to four parts of your liquid concentrate. (Note: There is a lot of controversy about using bleach to kill mold and mildew, however approximately half of the contract cleaners use bleach because of availability, price, and effectiveness)
Another method of using bleach is not as a cleaner, but as a way to retard the growth of mold and mildew. Its residual effects disappear as soon as it is rinsed off. A ratio of 8 to 1 works well. This is something that the homeowner should be encouraged to do to help extend the life of your cleaning job.
To remove black spots and black streaks from gutters and siding, cut DNB-1430 5 to 1, or use it undiluted. Caution: Undiluted DNB-1430 can remove some paints and coatings. Be sure and test a hidden area to determine the strength required to remove the spotting without removing the paint.
Adding wax to your rinse water will extend the life of the power wash job and enhance its appearance. Refer to the information in the section about W-200 Spray Wax for more details.
Cut R-109 or DNB-1430 40 to 1. For mossy areas, pre-spray with A-400 Aluminum Brightener cut 20 to 1.
Cut R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430 50 to 1. Some Contractors pre-spray with DNB-1430 cut 10 to 1, and follow with a hot wax rinse. The wax reduces the amount of cleaning needed and makes the next cleaning easier. The cost of the wax is about twenty cents.
Pre-spray with V-501, or V-502 Liquid Concentrate cut 5 to 1 for heavy build-up, then wash with V-501, or V-502 Liquid Concentrate cut 40 to 1. Caution: V-501 and V-502 may etch some aluminum hoods if contact time is too long.
Pre-spray heavy carbon deposits with OD-100 cut 10 to 1. Wash with V-500 cut 10 to 1.
Pre-spray with OD-100 cut 10 to 1. Wash with V-502 cut 20 to 1.
Cut R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430 Liquid Concentrate 40 to 1. Pre-spray oil spots with R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430 cut 5 to 1.
Caution: Asphalt is a petroleum-based product, and high concentrations of R-109, V-505, and DNB-1430 can break down the asphalt. In order to cut the oil and grease and not the asphalt, you need the proper strength and the correct dwell time. This takes a little practice to achieve the desired results. Call Delux Cleaning Supply at 1-800-433-2113 for further assistance with how to clean asphalt safely.
Pre-spraying the concrete and allowing the detergent/degreaser some dwell time in order to soften the dirt, grease, and grime will save time. Try to not allow the chemical to dry, but if it does, pre-spray lightly again. Depending on the extent of surface contamination, you may have to wash with a chemical after pre-spraying or just use a clean water rinse. On heavily contaminated surfaces, your liquid concentrate pre-spray should be cut somewhere between 5 and 10 to 1. For washing, it should be between 20 and 40 to 1. Popular chemicals for this application are R-202, R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430.
- Note: Some contractors like to sprinkle R-202 dry powder on the concrete, fog it lightly with water, brush it, and then use a high pressure hot water rinse.
- Another technique is to boost the power of R-109 with a 3 to 1 ratio of R-202 for difficult cleaning situations.
Pre-spray with R-103LX mixed 10 to 1 with diesel fuel. Soak from two to 12 hours depending on the thickness of the asphalt or tar. Dwell time during the heat of the day in direct sunlight also helps. Wash with DNB-1430, DSR-50, or R-109 Liquid Concentrate cut anywhere from 10 to 20 to 1.
Cut A-400 or A-402 20 to 1. Apply from the bottom up, then wash with R-109, V-505, or DNB-1430, cut 40 to 1, from the top down (the detergent neutralizes the acid in A-400). Rinse with clean water.
Masonry Cleaning
Masonry cleaning is hunt and peck type of work since one chemical or procedure does not do all jobs. Testing is required on all jobs, and it is not unusual for each side of the building to require a different technique. To start, testing should be done with and without heat, with and without detergent (R-109, V-505, DNB-1430, V-502, DSR-50, or R-202), and Rotating Zero Degree Nozzles (Rotomax or ST-58). Because of environmental concerns, many contractors are changing to cold water and Rotating Zero Degree Nozzles so that the runoff can go into the storm drain.
If none of the above work, the next step is to try Aluminum Brightener. Cut A-400 or A-402 40 to 1. Caution: A-400 and A-402 can etch glass and some architectural aluminum.
If these methods do not work, sand blasting, soda blasting, or using restoration chemicals are the next steps. For restoration chemicals, we recommend Diedrich Products at 1-800-323-3565 or by Fax: 414-764-6993
Bricklayers have a lot of control over whether this type of job can be profitable or not. Sloppy work by masons can greatly increase the costs of pressure washing masonry. The most common acid used by bricklayers is muriatic acid, which is harsh and reacts with the oxides in some brick, turning the brick a different color. A test with muriatic acid should be done allowing the acid to dry for 24 hours then inspecting for discoloration. Both SureKlean and Diedrich Chemicals have commercial acid cleaners with buffers in them to avoid this problem.
The basic procedure is to remove all the heavy build up of mortar with a scraper or chipping hammer. Then wet the surface just before applying the acid. This keeps the acid on the surface. This work needs to be done while the mortar is still green (fresh). The longer the mortar cures, the harder it is to remove. The acid will only remove a thin layer (scum) of mortar. After applying the acid, use your high pressure washer for cleaning. Most contractors use 2,000 to 3,500 PSI. Zero-degree rotating nozzles, like the RotoMax, and ST-457, will add greatly to your cleaning ability. Exercise caution to avoid blowing out the joints.
Apply acids with special acid sprayers or special acid brushes like Tampico brushes.
Chemical coverage: Normally, paint strippers will cover 100ft²/gal. when brushed or 200ft²/gal. when sprayed. When using airless spraying equipment, you will need units with stainless steel pick up parts and Teflon packing.
Paint Stripping Buildings: allow one hour per layer of paint. There are many environmental disposal problems to address when dealing with paint, especially if the paint is lead based. For more information call Diedrich Products at 800-323-3565 or Fax them at 414-764-6993.
For truck, pickup, car, and heavy equipment paint stripping, use VR-3 Trailer Decal and Truck Paint Remover.
Use AC-12 Awning Cleaner cut 5 to 1.
Use AC-22 Awing Cleaner cut 10 to 1.
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